For Bike fanatics that get fired up when they see old steel, understand that possibly it wasn't that pretty when they carried out the project. Many vintage enthusiasts have to accomplish some sort of remodelling on their classic steed before letting the motorcycle to hit the asphalt. Today, we will take a quick look on what it requires to put some new life into an old gas tank that's been battered after several years of reliable service.

You may have heard old wives' tales about filling up tanks with liquid then freeze them to remove notches or the like, however, there is an process to accomplish this project and there is no smarter option than to take out the tank to pieces and cure the specific problem. Actual experience proves that you might commit about as much time or conserve time, by performing the right way the 1st time.

Below is a brief summary of the basic steps below:

1. Perhaps you have realized, this tank is afflicted with a very common ailment. Dents, grinds, and file marks left out from the '60s and '70s when it just wasn't cool to have many stock insignias and creative edge. Long ago, the hipster required a "smooth" motorbike. Out went the decorations and sugar canes which was followed by the bondo and sleek chopped necks. To cure this issue and get the tank to its best outline, you would reincarnate bondo. But wait, what about placing new insignias to it and making this 1941 tank to its former stock beauty? You can't simply keep those screwdriver notches and pry scars! Well, why don't you just take all the dents with a slide hammer? Sounds like a bunch of highs and lows. Say, freezing water in the tank? It will most likely turn it into a shape of a football. So, what can you do?

2. The solution is rather simple. Simply, grind the bottom welds down on a 45-degree angle, and come apart the fuel tank sections just as the factory had them made. You'll find out the two sections were crafted on tooling and there is a lip pressed on the internal fuel tank segment for contour and weld penetration on the inside pattern. It's a good habit to fasten and leave out the petcock before taking your good old fuel tank apart. If you take out the petcock without any care, your effort can take the place out and your petcock won't seal, causing leakages.

3. Next, you must do a brief inspection on the English Wheel, an easy and raw device that pushes the sheets from the two dies to control the metal. It is possible to create round, convex, or compound curves to metal with this simple wheeling machine. You can also make metal perfectly flat with it. Understand that you're stressing the metal while you roll and it becomes more thin the longer you roll. In addition, it will likely become denser. Considering this, when you have a factory drawn piece, you should make sure never to alter its measurements. Take it easy over the time in the wheel. The objective is restoring the tank to what it was before, not to something else.

4. Defects that cannot be taken out are the grind scars and an old fix in the middle of the fuel tank where a tack was removed through the metal. It won't be possible to take out grind markings in metal until you stretch and thin the steel beyond the deepness of the grind mark, this may severely change the shape of the gas tank. You may also discover that there are many little dings within the rear of the tank where the English Wheel couldn't reach.

5. Next, you might want to make sure that your gas tank is still retaining its shape, so it's best to match the inside pane back in and check for faults. In this case, the work was completed perfectly as well as the outline of the tank has not been changed. Also observe that gas tank's mounting hook were not removed. This is important, as it would produce additional work and potential problems.

6. Next, finish off the tiny notches with a rounded hammer and dolly that you regularly use. It doesn't matter what you like. An experienced guy in metal craft could use everything to use with knocking. It's less or more like a touch rather than having tools with cool labels. When you're hitting, you'll be able to feel and push your dolly (on the inside pane of the metal) around with your hammer. In this way, you can correct lines, dents, etc. with any specific type of dolly. The metal look marred when you are finished but this will emerge with an abrasive disc, sand paper, or high-build primer. You will notice that the dents at the back of the fuel tank are gone.

7. As a final point, weld the interior panel back on ensuring to weld on the inside edge of the tank half and not the upper part. Factory welds were placed on the interior edge and the top side was smooth. Simulate the "ropey" look of the stock weld.

8. After you have inspected for leakages and proven you are done with the fixes, you can addon the stock tank strips as well as other items which were worn out a long time ago.

9. Ultimately, you will have a nice and very straight factory fuel tank to give to the painter.

This year, bike rallies are ready to kick off from different states. A multitude of bikers will be congregating for a week of festivity all sharing their love for motorcycles. There will be stories and custom ideas to share with new friends as you ride the days with the bike run. Make sure to travel protected and wear the required safety gear like DOT recommended carbon fiber helmets. Enjoy and have a wonderful ride.