As the, the primary drive transfers power from the engine to, ultimately, the rear wheel. alternating power provided through the engine’s crankshaft is transformed into rotating energy through the moving primary chain and sprockets that rotate the transmission’s inner shaft. After the power recollects within the transmission it’s sent out from the gears and inside the second drive, that is the chain or belt drive that spins the bike's back end wheel. This is usually a short description of a Motorcycle powertrain, and, basically, every piece takes on part in running you and your bike along the street.

Given powertrain consists of a group of moving parts, you will have to make regular alterations in them so they will run efficiently. After awhile, moving parts, including the primary drive’s sprockets and chain, break. As the parts wear, they demand correction to keep up proper tolerance. And it’s the primary driver’s multi-row roller chain that ought to be looked over and fine-tuned from time to time. It’s a rather uncomplicated procedure, too, it is something you can work within your own garage or shop.

A lot of the action occurs within the inspection window that is accessed by taking off the plate secured on by 4 mounting bolts. You will need to have a ruler to make the sizing and few basic tools to do the adjustments. To fine tune, release the adjusting shoe’s 9/16” nut just a few spins and rotate the shoe up to tighten the chain or downwards to loosen.

An excellent time to check and fine-tune the primary chain is when you have to drain and change the main case lube. Harley Davidson recommends its multi-purpose synthetic oil, but if you do have a desired brand that’s been developed for the primary drive, by all means, use it. Just make sure whatever lube you select is designed for this purpose.

When you have removed the inspection plate, you have a good view of the chain’s rollers and the adjuster shoe, so makes use of the time to check them for wear. Take a look at the chain’s rollers to find if they are receiving total oiling, and check the adjuster shoe for chips and the like. Inspecting and fine-tuning the primary chain does not consume too much time, when you’re finished you will have one thing of the checklist of things to do during your next drive. Just be sure to replace the inspection plate gasket.

Things You'll Need:

Sealant (for Pipes)
Drain pan
T27 Torx
T40 Torx
9/16” socket (deep)
Extended Ratchet
Measuring Stick or Ruler

1. Standard routine service like fine-tuning the primary chain can be performed within your own garage or shop when it’s time to change the main oil. Be sure the bike is secured in an upright stance once you begin.

2. One thing to do is to drain the primary case of its used fluid. Once a drain pan is placed below the primary, have a T40 Torx to remove the drain plug that is located underneath the derby cover.

3. Leave the used primary fluid to drain in the drain pan. As it drains, you can easily look at the primary chain to find if it needs tuning.

4. Work with a T27 Torx socket to get rid of a few bolts that secure the primary inspection plate in place. It’s a good idea to change the inspection plate gasket before you install the plate.

5. While the inspection plate is removed, you can check out the chain’s rollers for signs of wear. Try checking them for signs of damage. Set the transmission to neutral then spin the engine a bit several times so you can see the chain.

6. Measure the chain in several places and try to take two readings each time. One is with the chain’s top run at slack. Second, he raises the ruler from the top run to get rid of the slack and to make measurements once again. The main difference within the two on the chain’s most tight point is the chain’s slack.

7. Use a 9/16” deep socket to fine tune the chain’s free play. While the chain is cold, set the free play from ½” and 7/8”. Right after you have tightened the nut again, again, get the slack's measurements to make sure that you have fix the proper amount.

8. With the exposed inspection plate, also check out the adjuster shoe that is pushing from the chain’s bottom run. You can see the adjustment nut in the upper right corner.

9. Unlike the engine and transmission drain plugs, the O-rings are missing. To make sure it is sealed, rub a dab of sealant (for pipes) around the base of the bolt.

10. After cleaning the oil from the primary cover, re-install the main case drain plug. When already set, gently twist the bolt's from the inspection plate and the derby cover bolts to 108 in-lbs.

11. Now you may replenish the main case with fresh new fluid. Generally shops use lube from a common source and not retailed storage containers.

12. Pump in 32 ounces of fluid. Put in the proper amount for your bike's model and year.

Good luck and just a reminder, bear in mind it is important to make certain you travel with your bike with protection. Make sure you use authentic carbon fiber helmets.