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Everything You Need to Know About the Bathroom Installation Process

By Edited Nov 13, 2013 0 0


Having the suitable sequence to stagger the different steps associated with a regular bathroom installation will guarantee that the job gets done more rapidly, less costly, and to a greater industry standard.


The rest of this post will walk you through the stages involved with a regular bathroom refit (completed by myself and my team in Horsforth, Leeds in this situation).


Clear the Bathroom of All Your Personal Belongings
Put Down Protectors to Limit Damage

The bathroom is emptied of your own various items ahead of the bathroom installation workforce coming in to work.


Upon arrival, carpet guards are put down to minimize possible damage.


Water is turned off, and the heating device is cleared.

Various pieces are removed (e.g. blinds, cabinets, toilet roll holders, etc.).


The existing suite is taken out (i.e. the bath, shower tray and enclosure, bath & bath screen, shower area, basin, toilet, etc.) and put inside of a trash bin.


 Top idea

The bath is the very last suite item taken away to enable any waste water coming from the toilet pan or basin trap to be drained in it.


All the waste pipes are taken out as new pieces and will be fitted as a part of a new installation.  This method ensures the fresh pipework is certainly clean and devoid of debris like hair and soap which often clog up older waste plumbing, particularly when they flow uphill!


Every one of the power connectors are disconnected when appropriate & capped off (e.g. your existing electric shower, for example).


Tile disposal

The tiles are then taken from the walls and then the issues to the walls beneath the tiles are examined - for example the present tiles happened to be tiled onto wall surfaces which were rendered and plastered, and that render was found to be ‘blown’. This means that it's no longer stuck properly on the brick surface behind, and needed to be taken away to ensure that the next step of the job is ready to go (look at the image listed below).

Add Additional Insulating Foam
Limit Heat Loss From Bathroom
Assess Damage Beneath Tiles

At this stage, additional expanding foam insulating material is used around the inadequately fitted UPVC window frame to aid insulation and minimize heat loss from the bathroom.


First Fix Electrics

This step requires running every one of the cables which will drive the items that are part of the new bathroom installation:


A switched fused spur is fitted to power the electric underfloor heating system, and a solitary back box is chased into the wall outside the bathroom to support the modern digital thermostat. A conduit is chased straight into the wall to feed the underfloor heating line & temperature sensor wire through, making it possible for easy unit replacement if the sensor is found to be faulty in advance of full installation.


Electrical cables are run, and holes are drilled into the ceiling to hold new ceiling spotlights.


Electrical cables are also run to the location required for a brand new shaver plug, and a back box is chased straight into the wall in planning.


A hole is drilled into the outside wall to allow an extractor fan as part of an attempt to minimize condensation & mould, and then the necessary wires are run in the loft atop. Provisions are fashioned for an isolating control to allow the end user to switch the fan off if needed.


Wall Preparation

After the walls have been completely brought ‘back to brick’ and the 1st fix electrics are carried out, they are then re-boarded using water-resistant plasterboard by using ‘dot ‘n’ dab’ technique.


This method certainly is the quickest, simplest and most economical technique to get entirely level, plumb, square walls whenever you're boarding a room from ‘back to brick.’


Top idea

Whenever you are boarding out the space, make the inner wall edges square (especially at the position the shower tray or bath rim will rest) to ensure the tray or bath will sit snugly up to the walls surrounding it - this will assist to create a watertight seal surrounding the bath when fitted effectively.


The surface where the shower will be placed is rendered with bonding plaster (as an alternative to boarded - to be sure the bath matches the available spot with this case.) This is because rendering commonly packs the wall out significantly less than ‘dotting ‘n’ dabbing’ and this is very important on walls where the door frames / architrave make this approach unfeasible.

Render the Shower Place with Bonding Plaster
Pack Extra Drywall Adhesive

At this stage, channels are chased out in the blockwork to connect the hot and cold pipes to the shower, and in the plasterboard to run pipework to the brand new towel radiator as can be seen above. Additional drywall adhesive is packed surrounding the new chased channel in the plasterboard to make sure that the board edges are supported.


 Top idea

It is quicker to acquire totally level, plumb, square walls in advance of chasing out for the pipework as opposed to chasing these out initially and then working to level up the wall surrounding the lines.


 Now's the optimum time to paint the ceiling, as you will not splatter the bath or the tiles with your paint roller - you additionally don’t need to cautiously cut in around the sides as you would be likely to if you executed this approach after tiling the walls.


First Fix Plumbing

Doing this phase consists of running fresh supply pipework to (& waste pipework from) the intended position of the all new suite products.


Supply pipework carries cold and hot water to the thermostatic mixer shower, bath filler, basin mixer tap & (cold water exclusively) for the loo with this instance.


Water is transferred by means of 15/22mm copper or plastic pipes that are run under the floorboards (in between & through the joists where mandatory) to stop hideous boxing associated with installing pipework over floor level - see graphic for the initial bathroom at the outset of this article.


Supply pipework providing the shower and bath filler are run above the floorboards beneath the bath, making future access less difficult should repair be needed.


Provisions are usually made for the lines to take the waste water away from your bath/shower, basin & toilet (referred to as waste pipes.) These will have to carry waste water from the toilet (4 inch diameter pipe) straight into the soil vent pipe (which is normally located on the exterior of the home) and waste water from the bath/shower (1½ inch diameter pipe) & sink (1¼ inch diameter pipe) into either the soil vent pipe or a rain water hopper depending on the drainage options available. Observe in the picture above how the soil vent pipe is marked on the wall internally to make sure the bath waste opening is drilled in an suitable position.


In cases like this, another opening was drilled for the bath waste because the new bath contained the waste on one side, whilst the old bath’s waste was in the middle. This meant the previous hole needed to be blocked up with mortar - that was completed prior to re-boarding the walls in this particular instance.


While the toilet is getting replaced in the same position, the place where the soil pipe comes into the bathroom does not need to be transformed, so no new holes need to be drilled - this saves a lot of time and money.


The bath taps are fitted to the bath just prior to installation, as well as the pop-up bath waste & trap.


Baths or shower trays are established at 1st fix stage because they need to be installed before the start of tiling. This really is very important to get professional watertight seals, as water ingress caused from doing important things in the improper sequence can cause massive issues in the future.


At that point, the central heating system pipework also needs to be moved to allow for the new position of the new towel warmer on top of the bath. This requires clearing down the heating system previous to refilling it when the pipework has been finished to check for leaks.


Once all of the pipework is tested for leaks the floorboards can return back down and then the following can be done:


All of the pipework that's been chased in the wall is anchored in place by using clips followed by drywall adhesive or a sand & cement mix, making sure that they are initially covered with an impenetrable adhesive tape to protect the copper from chemical attack. Doing this makes sure that the lines will be held in the correct position & sustains a flat area that can later be tiled on.


Wall Tiling

First of all, the the wall surfaces around the bath are tanked (made totally watertight) utilizing a tanking kit to make certain no water can go through to the wall and lead to any problems linked to water ingress behind tiles.


 Top idea

When you are tiling a bathroom ‘floor to ceiling,’ there's no reason for plastering out the boards ahead of tiling. In fact, it will decrease the mass of tile weight the plasterboard holds, and it's really best to leave new plaster to dry up for 4 weeks before you start tiling, guaranteeing you a long delay!


Subsequently, we plan out the tile design to make sure that the finished design appears well balanced, and we're not getting any awkward or needlessly tiny cuts. A bit of time invested during this period could save you a lot of time and problems in the future.


As soon as the horizontal and vertical axis have been worked out, a horizontal baton spanning the whole circumference of the room is attached to the walls.


It is crucial that this baton is completely level, and half an hour levelling this up precisely can save you half a day of tiling, and make a professional finish a great deal more conceivable. After that tiling can start.

Ensure the Baton is Completely Level

When the tiles are stuck to the plasterboard above the baton all the way round the room, the window reveals can then be tiled.

Adhere Tiles Above Baton

As the wall tiles must finish ‘down’ to the floor tiles to get a nice looking, watertight finish, I leave fixing the wall tiles beneath the baton until after the floor tiles have been fitted.

Floor Tiling

The floor is then ready for tiling and afterwards tiled.


When the floor is over-boarded, the underfloor heating cable can be laid out - this simply comprises of sticking the heating line and temp probe to the tile backer boards.

Underfloor Heating Cable Laid Out

You should check the heating cable at this time to ensure that it actually operates. The last thing you want to do is to actually bury a faulty heating cable underneath the tiles, that will then need to be extracted when you find out that the heater does not work.


Right after the tiles are placed (and the adhesive has set up), the remaining wall tiles can be installed.


As soon as all of the tiling has been done, and the adhesive has completely cured the tiles can be grouted.


Once grouting & tile polishing, all appropriate edges can be sealed using silicon e.g. along the bath edge and wall/floor junctions etc.

Second Fix Electrics

This phase consists of fitting the items that are to be included in the fresh bathroom installation:

  • The underfloor heating thermostat
  • The ceiling spotlights and associated pull cord
  • The shaver plug
  • The extractor fan and isolating control


In this bathroom installation, the door was rehung on the opposite side of the frame to provide the clients more space upon moving into the bathroom.


This was thought about from the outset & lighting pull-cords were positioned appropriately.


The vanity element was also set up and fitted to the wall ready for the plumbing professional.

Second Fix Plumbing

This phase needed the fitting / plumbing for the following items:

  • The thermostatic shower onto the hot & cold feeds sticking out from the wall
  • The bath screen
  • The toilet cistern and returning to wall pan & soft close seat
  • The basin & basin mixer tap
Fit Plumbing Items

Ending Touches

The next items were next fitted to complete:

  • Venetian blind
  • Toilet roll holder
  • Cabinet


Time taken - 1.5 weeks for ukbathroomguru



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