Installing hardwood-floors can be a time consuming job, but it can be done by most do it yourselfers. Wood floors add beauty and elegance to a home. They also increase the value of house. hardwood-flooring is available in a wide variety of wood ranging from light colors such as Oak hardwood-flooring to exotic hardwoods such as Brazilian Walnut hardwood-floors. They are available as pre finished hardwood-floors or as an unfinished hardwood-floor. The hardwood-floors are available from several manufacturers such as Mannington hardwood-floors, Anderson hardwood-floors, Mohawk hardwood-floors, Shaw hardwood-floors. Wood floors are also available at many different price points and if you aren't overly picky about manufacturers, Lumber Liquidators offers cheap hardwood-floors, price wise.

hardwood-floors are installed parallel to the longest wall in the room.

Rent a floor nailer at a home improvement store or hardware store before you begin your hardwood-floor installation. The floor nailer is not a requirement, but it makes the job much easier.

Remove the existing floor covering to expose the plywood subfloor or concrete slab.

Check the plywood sub floor for any damage and loose nails or screws. Remove and replace damaged plywood. Hammer in loose nails and secure them in place with a screw directly next to the loose nail even after you have hammered it back in place. Add extra screws to secure the plywood as necessary.

Remove baseboard and door trim.

If you are installing a wood floor over a concrete slab, lay down a vapor barrier. A vapor barrier with keep moisture that may seep up from concrete away from the hardwood-floor planks which prevents warping.

Use a chalk line to make a straight line approximately 1/8 of an inch away from the wall every 18 to 20 inches.

Place 1/8 of an inch shims or thin pieces of wood up against the wall in order to maintain the distance along all walls. This is very important because wood floors need room to expand during certain weather conditions. Without room to expand, wood floors can buckle.

Drill a small pilot hole in each end and center of the first row of boards.

Place the first piece of hardwood-floor board up to the wall in front of the shims. The side will the tongue needs to be facing away from the wall and towards you.

Hammer a nail through each pre-drilled hole to hold your first row in place.

Make cuts to the ends as you go along.

Begin the second row. Lift the floor board at about a 45° to fit the tongue (on nailed in boards) into the groove (on next row) Stagger the wood floor boards so the end lines do not match up. The end lines or seams should be at about the half way point or a little less of the next row of floor boards.

Place the floor nailer up against the board and hit the driving head with a hammer.

Make cuts to the ends as you go.

Continue until the entire sub floor is covered with hardwood-flooring.

Carefully check the swing of the doors that enter into newly laid wood flooring to be sure they clear the floor. If the doors do not clear the floor, use a planer and shave the bottom of the door.

Remove shims from the perimeter of the floor.

Replace baseboard and door trims.




Remember to use the shims along each wall.