Process - 1
Ice Candles are some of the ways we made candles as kids, with leftover parafin wax from grandma's canning and crayola crayons for color. So skip down memory lane, and have a little fun.
• ice pellets or chunks (not crushed)
• candle wax
• taper candle (for making tall candles)
or votive (for making short can-dles)
• various disposable containers with a waxy lining
(example: milk cartons, yogurt or juice containers, or styrofoam cups)
• simmer pot shavings
1. Over medium heat, melt wax until completely liquefied. (Be careful that wax does not overheat or boil) Hint: you may even melt down your old candles instead of buy-ing new wax.
2. Fill milk carton, or other container with ice pellets. If making a tall candle, place taper into center of container and ice, making sure it is stable.
3. Slowly pour wax into container, pouring directly over ice.
4. After wax has had time to set up and harden, pour melted ice (water) out of container.
5. Slowly remove carton, carefully peeling it away from candle (as if you were peeling an orange). "Now light your candle and enjoy!"
Suggestion: To give a slight hint of color, try adding simmering pellets or colored shavings or both in with your ice, then pour wax. This will give your candle a wonderful scent.
Process - 2
Likely you will encounter this technique under many other names (ice candle, candle cheese ...) but I particularly like the name Lunar candle because I think it fits perfectly with the somewhat devastated that have this type of candle from the mold when ...
Several types of finishes are possible, each change considerably the final look, but I chose here to present the basic version, without finishing.
The secret of this beautiful candle look tortured? Ice!
• Difficulty: Easy
• Time needed: about 1 hour (+ cooling)
• 1 mold polycarbonate or metal cylindrical or square (you can also use a can of soda you'll cut the bottom - see section house molds )
• 450g (1 pound) of mixture to pillars ,
• 1 candle of size equal to or greater than the height of the mold,
• dye according inspiration,
• of sealant ,
• one wick holder , purchased or homemade
• ice too thick (ideally those obtained in plastic bags honeycomb)
• an empty basin.
plus of course the classic material cast, thermometer, containers, parchment paper, etc..
1. Because it is difficult to keep the ice away we will use the wick and that the latter should always be surrounded by a large volume of paraffin, we will replace the fuse by a normal candle already completed, you will purchased or produced yourself.
Push the wick of the candle in the hole in the mold which, in principle, the wick is inserted and then caulk with sealant to prevent leakage of paraffin.
You should then arrange (with a wick or other device) to the candle still and perfectly centered in the mold. Keep in mind that the introduction of ice in the mold will exert some pressure on the candle and it will be virtually impossible to recover it once the mold filled with blocks of ice.
2. Before you begin (and do not ask me why I insist), make sure you have enough ice available and that they are the right size: If you use an ice cube tray standard (cubic) there is every chance that the ice obtained are too large to be slid between the candle and the central banks of the mold.
So far, the best I've found are obtained using ice packs in plastic pouches which are filled with tap water, the tip is then tied and all placed in the freezer. The result: beautiful ice oval and relatively flat!
3. Before starting to fill the mold with ice, pour a thin layer (5mm) of paraffin at the bottom of the mold.
This will ensure that the top of the candle has no holes and will also ensure that the wick of the candle used does not absorb (too much) water, the result of the melting ice future.
4. Once the first thin layer of paraffin has hardened sufficiently as to not splash when you place the ice in the mold, start filling it.
You can use only the ice, but for this example, I alternated ice and small teddy paraffin same color.
Feel free to use or not in, the same color or another, it's like you want: the result (color aside) should be identical.
Fill the mold to the brim (not to exceed) and shake lightly to pack ice and top up if necessary.
5. Take care not to fill the mold ice when your wax will already arrived at the ideal temperature: 180 ° C to 190 ° C.
Once the ice out of the freezer, you can not afford to wait half an hour until the temperature reaches paraffin, failing to obtain a water candle ...
Paraffin ready? Then pour over ice and up to the brim in the mold, the mold type with the flat of a wooden spoon to make up the air bubbles to the surface and then add paraffin, if necessary.
If the central candle over, no problem: you cut the excess once the finished candle.
6. It is clear that, because of ice, this type of candle cools much faster than a pillar of the same size (without ice) would.
However, a cooling cavity will form the top of the mold, you will need to fill as usual.
While the candle refoidit, I draw your attention to one point: the wick of the candle is calculated based on the diameter of the candle and not one of your candle moon. This means that, because of this bit too small flame "dig" a well inside the plug rather than the entire melt paraffin.
In this case, it is perfect because the light of the flame "play" across the surface of the candle tortured, giving lighting effects very pleasant. But if you want to avoid this, you can always make a first pillar, very thin and full, with a bit too big for him, but corresponding to the final diameter of the candle. Then you will like this first pillar "heart" instead of the candle.
7. Once the candle completely cooled and when comes the time of release, do not forget the ice turned into water (I say that because I usually forget half the time and when it happens, it this is always an evil to recommend the use of Pampers). Therefore turn out over a bowl and turn and turn the candle to get the water trapped inside.
8. If your central candle was too long, use a sharp knife to cut it flush with the base of the candle.
As always, flatten the base by rubbing against a hot plate, like a lasagna pan placed on the cooktop.
It is recommended that this type of candle to dry a week before turning it on, to allow time for the wick (which more than likely, despite your precautions, absorbed water during operation) to dry .
Before switching on, shake the candle near your ear to determine whether or not a pocket of water trapped in paraffin. If this is the case, not much to do, but know that when the flame reaches the level of the water pockets, there is every chance that the spark goes off in a big psssshhhhhh!
9. And here is your finished candle moon!
You can try the following variants:
Instead of using ice integers, then replace them by crushed ice, it will give the candle a lace effect quite interesting.
The easiest way to crush ice is to put ice cubes in a kitchen towel, fold it to properly wrap the ice, put everything on a hard surface (concrete recommended) and hit it with a sledgehammer or a hammer. It works and it lets off steam!
You can also use ice after whole dive 3 or 4 times fully and fairly quickly finished candle in a container of hot water. It will melt a portion of the surface and "rounder" holes in the candle, giving it the appearance more "soft and round" of a block of cheese.