Beautiful Wave

Surfer at Sunset

Credit: Photography by David Orias

Deciding to Learn to Surf

Inspiration to become a surfer

Deciding to surf is an expert life decision. As a surfer you will get tanned, fit and self confident. You will naturally be drawn to distant exotic costal locations while simultaneously developing a powerful self-motivated drive to get there. All that time in the water will give you an intimate relationship with the ocean and the life around it. Surfing will change the way you see the world and yourself. Most of all, it is thrilling.

Surfing builds muscle and burns fat. Mother ocean will kick you around and send you this way and that until you become fit enough to hack it. Often you will find your muscles burning like hell as you paddle harder to get beyond a wave before it breaks on you. You will see growth in your upper body especially abdomen, pectoral, triceps, shoulders and neck. Your body becomes naturally lean and your lung capacity will expand. Your exposed skin will naturally tan and your hair will become bleached by the combined corrosion of salt water and sun. These changes happen naturally as you learn to exist in the surf.

Enjoying existence in the surf requires a natural understanding of balance, momentum and hydrodynamics. As you progress in your surfing, you will gain a new understanding of the natural movement of objects through water. The natural buoyancy of your surfboard will become an asset to getting past breaking waves. This understanding will allow you to move through the surf with greater ease.  The ocean that was once mysterious will become your personal mega-playground. 

All of the sudden you have a reason to travel the world; from the city beaches of southern California to wilderness areas in South Africa. For each spot you visit, you will paddle out past the break and look back upon the shore behind you. You will find yourself awestruck by the beauty of the world. From barren desert landscapes in Morocco to the majestic snow capped mountains of New Zealand or rolling sand dunes in Chile. The possibilities are endless and the ocean becomes an infinity of enchantment.

You will learn to read the tide, the swell and the wind to understand her ever-changing mood. Almost all surf sessions involve encounters with wildlife. As you travel around you will see it all; from turtles to pelicans to jelly fish. Watching pelicans curl up, dive straight into the sea and come up with a big fish never grows old. Swimming with dolphins happens fairly often, but it never will lose its magic. The ocean contains so much life and it covers the planet.

Surfing will start to drive you around the world. You will find yourself in very remote places trying to get to unconventional spots. These adventures change you. You experience different modes of travel, different people, different societies and different currencies. You will inadvertently learn excellent life skills from these experiences. All the while having the best times of your life surfing.

So start now. Go buy a longboard. It's a long journey from getting your first longboard to taking an Indonesian water taxi out to a barreling reef break. Great life decisions require immediate action. There is no time to waste. Go surfing.

Lady Surfer

girl surfer

Lady Surfer
Credit: Caroline Woodham