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What is lens adapter: Camera and photography

By Edited Apr 27, 2014 0 0

In other words, these adapters not only let you use lenses from your old SLR system with a new DSLR that has a different mount, but also let you use optics that may not be available in mounts for your camera.

This small piece of accessory can bring down your investment on a lens systems drastically. In other words, these adapters not only let you use lenses from your old SLR system with a new DSLR that has a different mount, but also let you use optics that may not be available in mounts for your camera. They also expand the range of lenses available for brand new cameras. Nevertheless, with modern digital cameras, you should keep in mind the format (the size of the sensor, which acts as the film) for which the lens was meant. Lenses designed for Four Thirds System DSLRs, for instance, would vignette on APSC or full-frame DSLRs or 35mm SLRs, because their image-circle diameter is too small to cover the larger image formats. Mostly, adapters aren't available to attach smaller-format lenses to Iarger-format cameras. Also, think about connectivity. Canon EF lenses use electronic diaphragms, so you can't change the aperture when an adapter ring disconnects the electronic linkage between lens and camera body. This and the EOS system's flange back distance (the distance between the lens mount and the image plane) which is slightly' shorter than that of other DSLRs-is why you don't find adapters to connect EOS lenses to other DSLRs. If the Iens was designed for a shorter distance than that of the camera body, the lens won't focus out to infinity, although you can use it for close-up photography. Ideally, consult your authorised distributor to make sure the adapter will work with the lens-and-camera combination you are using or you want to use.

Know About Image Stabilisation

In digital technique, by this in-camera image stabilisation system, you do not need a tripod in most cases. Canon was the first to offer stabilised lenses when it introduced the EF 75-300mm f /14-5.6 IS USM zoom for its EOS cameras. The "IS" means the lens contains an optical Image

Stabiliser-a system of sensors that detects camera shakes (jerks) and a group of lens elements that moves to counter it. As a result, users could get sharp pictures two shutter speeds slower than possible without stabilisation. For example, you could get pictures at 1/50 second that were as sharp as shots taken at 1/200 second without stabilisation.

Modern IS lenses have doubled that to four shutter speeds. It's important to note, however, that with any handheld shooting-with or without stabilisation-how slow you can shoot depends partly on your skill, as well as the shutter speed and the focal length in use. Canon followed with more IS lenses and now offers around 25 of them. Nikon was next to introduce its VR (Vibration Reduction) lenses, with similar effects. Recently, Sigma introduced a series of OS (Optical Stabiliser) lenses and Tamron has its VC (Vibration Compensation) lenses. All of these lenses mean you can shoot sharper images handheld.

Follow these tips: It takes the stabilisation system a moment to detect shake and stabilise the image, so depress the shutter button half-way to activate the system, then wait for it to do its act before fully depressing the button to finally take the shot. Earlier, stabilised lens models could take a second or more to stabilise the image; newer ones are faster. With a stabilised lens, you can see in the viewfinder when the image has stabilised. With in-camera sensor-shift stabilisation, there's an indicator that lets you know when the system is functioning. If you use Live-View mode, you can see on the LCD monitor when the image is stable, with both in-lens and in camera stabilisation systems. You can switch the stabilisation system, on or off, whether in-lens or in camera.

Since the system does draw power, it will drain the battery quickly. Frankly, this is not a problem if you keep extra batteries. If you use a lens with stabilisation on a camera body with stabilisation, switch one or the other system off; don't try to use both in body sensor-shift stabilisation and in-lens optical stabilisation simultaneously.

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